The Joys of Provence – The Markets
One of the joys of being in Provence is experiencing the markets that are held almost daily as the markets rotate from one village to another. The French love their food and they love even more their traditional ways of procuring it from the farmers and vendors who set up stands at the weekly markets. We will visit at least two of these markets during our vacation week. The market in Apt, which is one of the largest and most famous and the Sunday market in Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, which is described in the article below. You will enjoy wandering through the markets delighting in the sights, smells and tastings of the vast array of fruits and vegetables, olives, spices, cheeses, sausages, etc. It’s all part of the joie de vivre that is Joie de Provence!
The following post is from Rick Steves (www.ricksteves.com) who writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio.
“Market days are an especially big deal throughout France. No single event better symbolizes the French preoccupation with fresh products and their strong ties to the farmer than the weekly market. And in no other region is it more celebrated than in Provence.
You can find an endless array of products at Provençal markets, from clothing to crafts, art to antiques, pâtés to picnic fare (produce, meats, cheeses, crusty golden baguettes, and pastries). The best of all market worlds may rest in the picturesque town of Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, where, on Sunday mornings, a brilliant food marché tangles with an active flea market and a good selection of antiques. I like to sip a coffee at a sidewalk table at Café de France and enjoy the carnival-like scene.
Markets typically begin at about 8:00 in the morning and end by 1:00 in the afternoon. Set-up commences in the pre-dawn hours — a good reason not to stay in a main-square hotel the night before market day. Bigger towns may have two weekly markets, one a bit larger than the other, with more nonperishable goods. The biggest market days are usually on weekends, so that everyone can partake.
Perishable items are sold directly from the producers — no middlemen, no Visa cards — just really delicious, fresh produce. Samples are usually free, including small cups of locally produced wines or ciders. You’ll find different items throughout the season. In April and May, shop for asparagus (green, purple, or the prized white — after being cooked, these are hand-dipped in vinegar or homemade mayonnaise). In late spring, find strawberries, cherries, and stone fruits. From July through September, eggplant, tomatoes, zucchinis, and peppers come straight from the open fields. In the fall, stands sell game birds, other beasts of the hunt, and a glorious array of wild mushrooms. After November and throughout the winter, look for little (or big, depending on your wallet size) black truffles.
At the root of every good market experience is a sturdy shopping basket or bag. Most baskets are inexpensive, make for fun and colorful souvenirs, and come in handy for odd-shaped or breakable carry-ons for the plane trip home. With basket in hand, shop for your heaviest items first. You don’t want to put a kilo of fresh apples on top of your bread.
Most vendors typically follow a weekly circuit of markets they feel works best for them, showing up in the same spot every week, year in and year out — though sometimes, you’ll meet the occasional widow selling a dozen eggs, two rabbits, and a wad of herbs tied with string. At a favorite market, my family has done business with the same olive merchant and “cookie man” for 18 years.
Merchants take pride in their wares. Generally the rule is “don’t touch” — instead, point and let them serve you. Many vendors speak enough English to assist you in your selection. Your total price will be hand-tallied on small scraps of paper and given to you. If you’re struggling to find the correct change, just hold out your hand and they will take only what is needed. Vendors are normally honest — still, you’re wise to double-check the amount you just paid for that olive tree.
It’s bad form to be in a hurry — allow the crowd to set your pace. For locals, market day is as important socially as it is commercially — a weekly chance to resume friendships and get the current gossip. Neighbors can catch up on Henri’s barn renovation, see photos of Jacqueline’s new grandchild, and relax over coffee. Dogs are tethered to café tables while friends exchange kisses. Listen carefully and you might hear the Provençal language being spoken between some vendors and buyers. Observe the interaction between them, and notice the joy they find in chatting each other up.
Provençal life is rooted in its countryside, small towns, and lively markets. To enjoy any small French town at its vibrant best, it’s worth being there on its market day.”